Wednesday October 12th to Tuesday October 18th 2022

‘Flying Scotsman’, perhaps the most famous steam locomotive ever, kicked off a year of events to celebrate 100 years since she first emerged from Doncaster Works in February 1923. Costing £7,944 and originally numbered 1472 she was the first locomotive built for the London North Eastern Railway (LNER) and in 1924 was chosen to be exhibited at the British Empire Exhibition at Wembley Park in London which aimed to celebrate the British Empire and its economic achievements and potential. It was at this time the locomotive was renumbered to 4472 and given the name ‘Flying Scotsman’ in honour of the prestigious daily 1000am London to Edinburgh passenger service. In 2022, now in British Railways livery and numbered 60103, ‘Flying Scotsman’ spent the weekend of 15th/ 16th October in light steam at the buffer stops of Kings Cross platform 8 allowing visitors to view this icon. The event also tied in with the 170th Anniversary of the opening of Kings Cross station in 1852.

Visitors to the station over the weekend were also able to take part in associated activities including a ‘Flying Scotsman’ driving simulator, where people could experience driving the engine out of The Cross, screens to watch live footage of ‘Flying Scotsman’ from the concourse and regular recorded announcements from Michael Portillo.

For my Saturday October 25th visit to see No. 60103 at Kings Cross, Yoshi stayed at home with his mum as we thought things might be a little too crowded for our boy. For my part, it was great to be reacquainted with ‘Flying Scotsman’ once again and to hear her whistle echo around Kings Cross. Also a great joy was to witness the faces of passengers arriving at the station and unexpectedly coming across the peoples’ locomotive. It seems that everyone loves a steam engine, and none more so than Sir Nigel Gresley’s most famous A3.

Purchased by Alan Peglar from regular British Railways service for £3,000 in 1963 after covering 2,076,000 miles, ‘Flying Scotsman’ was later under the custodianship of Sir William McAlpine and then Tony Marchington before, in 2004, a campaign spearheaded by the National Railway Museum (NRM) to save the locomotive for the nation was supported by thousands of members of the public, confirming its status as a national treasure. A ten year £4.2 million restoration project funded by the National Heritage Memorial Fund, the Heritage Lottery Fund and public donations followed.

There will be a calendar of mainline UK rail tours involving No. 60103 across the the next year. ‘Flying Scotsman’ is extremely well travelled as in addition to hauling enthusiast specials across England, Scotland and Wales, between 1969 and 1973 the locomotive toured extensively in the United States and Canada and from 1988 to 1989 she visited Australia where she set a record for the longest non-stop run by a steam locomotive of 422 miles on 8 August 1989. ‘Flying Scotsman’ actually set two world records for steam traction being the first steam locomotive to be officially recorded at reaching 100mph which happened on 30 November 1934.

The next of the planned Centenary events takes place on Yoshi’s doorstep as ‘Flying Scotsman’ visits the Swanage Railway for a three week visit until November 7th 2022. No. 60103 is on display at Swanage railway station for pre-booked visits to her footplate on 20th and 21st October 2022 as well as every day between 27th October to 6th November inclusive. ‘Flying Scotsman’ will be hauling passenger trains between Swanage and Norden from 22nd October to 26th October.

Making her way to the Isle of Purbeck, No. 60103 passed through East Dorset and we popped out to see her working tender first as she crossed the Holes Bay Causeway near Poole on the morning of 18th October 2022.

Another reason for my visit to London on Saturday was the opportunity to view the former Victorian St Pancras railway station water tower which was the subject of an open day. The water tower was built in 1872 and sat on the eastern side of St Pancras providing refreshment for steam locomotives using the station.

The water tower was nearly demolished as part of the 2001 Channel Tunnel rail link development at St Pancras. Thankfully a solution was sought to retain the building, and although now moved slightly from its original location, the water tower survives on land owned by the St Pancras Cruising Club. It was not an easy task relocating the structure as it was discovered that dismantling it brick by brick would be impossible given the hardness of the original mortar used in its construction. So instead, the tower was cut in half horizontally and moved in two pieces, the operation being completed by 2005.

Once I’d managed to find the entrance, which was gained by crossing canal lock gates, the tower’s elevated location and low lying surroundings contributed to stunning views across St Pancras and the Regent’s Canal.

St Pancras railway station was designed by Midland Railway engineer William Barlow and his masterpiece train shed roof was built to span five tracks in one single arc with its cross ties buried under the floor in the form of horizontal girders. At 74 metres this was once the largest span in the world. Not content with this, the company turned to Sir George Gilbert Scott to design a hotel which would be the most luxurious on the planet. Scott’s building has an entrance wing facing Euston Road with a curved quadrant forecourt to reach Barlow’s existing entrance ramps to the station. The Midland Grand hotel closed in 1935 and was then used as office space.

In the 1960’s British Railways driven by modernisation wanted to sweep it all away and concentrate rail services into neighbouring Kings Cross. However, unlike the corporate vandalism bestowed on London Euston, St Pancras had a flurry of supporters determined to save the building led by Sir John Betjeman and the newly formed Victorian Society. In 1967 the British Government acquiesced and St Pancras gained Grade I listed status and was saved the fate of the wrecking ball. Despite continued future use as BR offices and dormitories for rail staff the building fell into disrepair and was shut down in the 1980’s after failing fire safety checks. At a cost of £10 million, the exterior was restored and made structurally sound. But it was not until 2004 that planning permission was given for the building to be redeveloped into a new hotel.

The main public rooms of the former Midland Grand Hotel were restored, along with some of the bedrooms. The former driveway for taxis entering St Pancras station which passed under the main tower of the building was converted into a hotel lobby and a new wing constructed on the western side of the Barlow train shed. Although open to guests in March 2011, the formal Grand Opening of The St Pancras Renaissance Hotel was held on the 5th May the same year, 138 years to the day after the original hotel opened in 1873. St Pancras is, without doubt, my favourite building in London. One day I’ll have breakfast at the hotel, or stay a night – maybe even both.

Staying with buildings connected to Sir George Gilbert Scott, Grade II Battersea Power Station re-opened on 14th October, so as I was in London and hoping to find an inflatable pig tethered above it, I thought it would be remiss of me not to stick my nose in and see what had been done to the place. The construction is actually two near-identical power stations built to form a single structure balanced by four chimneys, one in each corner of the plan. Designed by a team of architects and engineers, and allowing me to seamlessly segue from railway water towers to power stations, the third son of Sir George; Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, was brought onboard in 1930 by the London Power Company as consulting architect. Working with the buildings designer and the company chief engineer, Leonard Pearce (not to be confused with Lennard Pearce who played Grandad in BBC sitcom “Only Fools and Horses”), Scott’s role was to enhance the external appearance of the structure. He remodelled the four corner chimneys so they mimicked classical columns and added detailing to the vast brick walls.

Battersea Power Station was originally opened in 1933, but has been disused since 1982. It was always one of the buildings I would look out for on rail journeys into London Waterloo, but is now obscured by modern buildings. At the time of its opening, The Observer newspaper called it “one of the finest sights in London” and I, for one, am happy it survived the intervening years which saw numerous unfulfilled proposals put forward for its regeneration. From theme parks to football stadiums, what we have ended up with on the site is a shopping centre, offices (soon to accommodate Apple’s London HQ) and homes occupying the building which was once dubbed “The Cathedral of Power” at the cost of £9 billion. 1,600 luxury flats have been built with a further 2,400 planned. Despite its size and six million bricks, I felt the former Power Station was somewhat lost amongst these new developments which have sprung up around it.

The London Underground’s Northern Line was extended, branching off at Kennington, with two new stations; Nine Elms and Battersea Power Station opening on 20th September 2021. The construction cost £1.1 billion and the extension is 3 kilometres long.

Not everything is open yet or accessible, such as the lift in one of the chimneys which promises aerial views of London, and Control Room A which will be used as an event space by invitation only. You can, however, visit Control Room B which is now a bar of the same name where staff wear white boiler suits and punters sit alongside switches and dials which technicians once used to control one fifth of the capital’s electricity. There was a queue of people waiting for seats when I passed by. On a future visit, I will definitely be checking out chef Gordon Ramsey’s bottomless pizzas at “Gordon Ramsey Street Pizza”. Unfortunately my visit of the exterior area was curtailed because of rain, so my intention of checking out the view of the railway originating from London Victoria across Grosvenor Bridge will have to wait until next time.

Sir Giles Gilbert Scott has a Dorset connection having designed the Church of the Annunciation, a Roman Catholic Church in Bournemouth. But this isn’t a blog about churches. Or power stations for that matter. And anyway, Bournemouth was in Hampshire in 1905.

Returning to my recent London adventure, I did however set Battersea Power Station in my sights later in the day when on my way home, I alighted from my Victoria Line tube train to see Belmond Trains “Brighton Belle” British Pullman rail tour arrive at London Victoria.

Thank you for stopping by, Yoshi and I will be back next week for more ‘Flying Scotsman’ related tales. Until then, take care!